Laconia and the Town that Launched 1,000 Ships.
Mainland Greece is often overlooked but it’s just as beautiful as any of the islands, even more steeped in history and culture, and offers thousands of miles of tranquil, mostly unspoiled coastline. These gorgeous waters produce some of the freshest seafood you’ll ever eat, served up in traditional tavernas, beach bars and modern restaurants where chefs are taking Greek cuisine to new heights.
If history or archaeology are your thing, ancient ruins, medieval castles, monasteries and churches are everywhere. So you can walk in the footsteps of mythical heroes in the morning, grab lunch at a beach taverna, and spend the afternoon lounging by the sea while you contemplate dinner.
Having frequented the Peloponnese over the years — mostly Kalamata and points south in the Mani and Messennia — I decided to set my sights on the easternmost peninsula of the region, Laconia.
I settled on the town of Gytheion as my base because Patrick Leigh Fermor spent time there and Matt Barrett recommends it. The town is also within striking distance of two places I really wanted to see — Monemvasia and the island of Elafonisos.
Gytheion is situated on the eastern side of the Mani peninsula and in ancient times it was the port of Sparta, which is about 40 km north. Its other notable claim to fame is that it was the place where Paris made off with Helen (the Face that Launched 1,000 Ships), igniting the fury of the ancient Greeks and leading to the sack of Troy.
Gytheion has a lovely seaside promenade — like Kalamata to the west — lined with tavernas, bars and cafes. But it’s smaller than Kalamata and more tidy, in my opinion. Typically Greek, it’s also a place where people enjoy the night. I strolled back to my hotel after dinner at 11 PM on a Saturday in early summer and it seemed like every establishment was full of people eating, drinking, chatting and generally enjoying each others’ company. (If you walked into a restaurant expecting dinner after 9 PM where I live, the only thing they would likely serve you is a disapproving glare.)
I stayed at L Suites The Writer’s House, which was unassuming but super comfortable and the staff couldn’t have been more welcoming. Christos in particular went above and beyond to offer up recommendations for restaurants and local attractions. He even called the day before my arrival, while I was still in the US, to welcome me and thank me in advance for booking with them. You don’t get that kind of service at the Four Seasons.
But as I mentioned, I went to Gytheion primarily for its relative proximity to other places I wanted to explore, Monemvasia and Elafonisos island.
Monemvasia
Situated about an hour drive east of Gytheion, on Laconia’s Aegean coast, the ancient fortress of Monemvasia is joined to the modern town of the same name by a short causeway. With luck you can drive over the causeway and find a place to park on the road (which I did).
The fortress is perched on a towering rock, with commanding views of the sea. Gazing skyward from the road, the remains of old stone walls and fortifications are clearly visible. The rich and complicated history of Monemvasia is believed to date back to antiquity, as one civilization after another used the high terrain to control shipping and guard their commercial and military interests. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Francs, Ottomans, Venetians — all played a defining role in Monemvasia’s past, making it an important coastal city for centuries, if not millenia.
While the crenelated medieval walls that once bristled with cannons remain in various stages of repair, the labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets they surround are now lined with shops, cafes, cozy little hotels, art galleries and gelaterias. It reminded me of a charming Italian hill town or a French country village.
After my drive from Gytheion, I was craving a freddo cappuccino so I popped into the first cafe I came across. The super friendly barrista suggested I enjoy it on the roof patio overlooking the sea, which sounded like a pretty good idea to me. A warm breeze from the east flecked the blue water below and it was all kind of dreamy and ethereal.
Fortified with coffee I made my way through the streets and up to the higher reaches of the town. I was solo but kept thinking if my wife and daughter were with me they could spend a couple of hours browsing in the shops while I did my nerdy history-buff thing and took photos of every church, crumbling wall and monument I could find. In other words Monemvasia has something for everyone in my world, and that’s a recipe for vacation peace and harmony.
I also remember thinking it would be nice not to have to drive all the way back to Gytheion, but instead have a key to a comfortable room in the citadel. But I wasn’t going back to Gytheion just yet anyway — I was headed to Elafonisos.
Elafonisos
With so much coastal access, Greece is a paradise for beach-goers. The sea almost everywhere is clean, clear and inviting. Many swimming spots are sandy and easy on your feet, but not all. So it’s a good idea to pack a pair of water shoes in case you have to navigate a stony shore just to get into the water.
Not so with Elafonissos, a tiny island just off the western coast of the Laconia peninsula, about a 15-minute ferry trip from the mainland. This is where you can eat amazing seafood, drink nice Greek wine, and spend your day squishing your toes in clouds of sand while contemplating life, the world, your crappy job, or whatever else you may have on your mind.
It’s quite possibly the best beach island in Greece, and I imagine most Greeks would concur. Or maybe not because they probably don’t want the word to get out.
I took a wrong turn after leaving Monemvasia, and Google Maps tried to punish me by leading me up a steep mountain road with what seemed like 1,000 switchbacks. Little did the geniuses at Google know I actually enjoy driving on roads like that and was rewarded at the very crest of the mountain when I came upon a shepherd and his flock blocking the way. But like Moses parting the Red Sea, he got the sheep to move aside and I was able to continue on.
A half-hour later and no worse for wear, I arrived at the ferry dock and crossed over to Elafonisos. My destination was Mikros Simos (Llittle Simos) beach, which my Greek teacher highly recommended. I rented a lounger, sat under a canopy, drank a couple of ice-cold beers, and swam in the cool, translucent water.
After a couple of hours I went up to the taverna and had a perfect lunch of marinated anchovies, Greek salad and the house white wine. After which I returned to my lounger and took a snooze before making my way back to the ferry.
I realize I only had time to experience one tiny corner of one tiny Greek island but based on that I would say if you can possibly make it work, get to Elafonisos. There’s a lounger waiting for you, and a friendly Greek waiter who would be more than happy to serve you lunch.
PRACTICALLY SPEAKING
In Gytheion:
Saga - A restaurant, not a taverna. White table cloths, great service and incredible seafood. Considered the best in Gytheion.
Trata - A more traditional psarotaverna serving fresh seafood in a relaxed environment.
Blue Bean Coffee - Locally roasted coffee served up by a team of young guys who clearly love what they do. The sleek urban decor is a refreshing departure from the traditional Kafeneio experience.
L Suites the Writers House - Clean, comfortable and welcoming. Breakfast not included but they bring it to your room anyway, for free — coffee, juice and a little sweet to start your day.
Aktaion City Hotel - One of Patrick Leigh Fermor’s favorite haunts, It’s been around for decades and dominates the waterfront. I haven’t stayed there but hear it’s great.
Monemvasia:
Emvasis Cafe - Friendly staff and great coffee you can enjoy on the covered rooftop patio with incredible views.
Elafonisos:
Mikros Simos Beach - Fluffy sand, turquoise water and a couple of nice tavernas offering beach loungers for rent. Connected to the larger Simos Beach just to the north.
Cervi and Paradiso - Beach bars on Mikros Simos where you can rent loungers and grab some shade when you’re ready for lunch.